Tag Archives: UK

Missing the point

mice city

Japanese English has been a source of amusement for a very long time; I remember watching Clive James on British television in the 80s filling programmes with ill-advised product names or the sight of Japanese people competing in extreme and bizarre game shows. At the time Japan seemed a distant and completely alien land.

Now that I’ve lived here for over twenty years, I still see the silly stuff, the Collon chocolate, Pocari Sweat (sports drink), the reversed ‘l’s and ‘r’s, I still pull out my iPhone and take photos of particularly funny examples. I joke about it and say that I’m glad to see there’s a long way to go before English teachers are obsolete, but sometimes I don’t find it so funny. In the 21st century, when we can access information from all over the world within seconds, when people travel so much and cultures are intermingled so much more than in the past, I wonder about the magpie-like appropriation of any word or image that seems cool, and what the impact of that can be. I know that Japan is not alone in this; other countries in Asia do the same and it’s not hard to find websites dedicated to cataloguing it all. In the past week I have been thinking about the appropriation of strong words (specifically f***) and images that are sacred to one religion but an apparent accessory to other people.

Last year, I was looking online for Hello Kitty goods to send to a friend’s daughter, and a search took me to Japanese Amazon, where among all the kitchen utensils and other goods for the home I came across this, the Hello Kitty crucifix:

kitty crucifix

It was being marketed as a Hello Kitty ‘with a playful pose, in a sailor suit’. There was ‘plain type’ and ‘cross type’. It was expensive; ¥15,000, or about £100. I put it on Facebook at the time, finding it ridiculous in some kind of awful, eye-rolling, whatever-will-they-think-of-next kind of way. Last week I mentioned it to someone who wasn’t in Japan then, and I posted it again, and someone else saw it and called Sanrio (the company who markets Hello Kitty) and explained to them the power of the image they had appropriated. It turned out that the image had been licensed to another company, which had in turn commissioned a designer and these pieces were part of the resulting collection, though the cross was not part of the original agreement. Once they understood the juxtaposition of images and how some people may feel, Sanrio decided to ask for the item to be removed. They didn’t want Hello Kitty’s image to be tarnished.

It reminded me of a conversation a friend overheard in Yokohama some years ago. A young Japanese woman was choosing an accessory at a street stall, and the vendor asked her if she would like the cross ‘with or without the little man’. It’s funny, but it’s also toe-curlingly crass, depending on your point of view. I certainly don’t want to become one of those people Richard Dawkins loves to hold up for ridicule, but I do think that we should respect each other’s sacred images. The same goes for images of monarchy, which many people admire or revere, and, to some extent, national flags. It is not always the case that Japan treats its own sacred images in a way that implies respect. A trip to Kamakura will provide many opportunities to buy sweet bean paste-filled buns shaped like the Big Buddha, and even a kind of Buddha-shaped candy on a stick. I find these items slightly disturbing, but they seem popular with visitors to the area.

As well as the appropriation of sacred images, there has long been a casual use of so-called taboo words. At its mildest, it is the throwing about of ‘Oh my God!’, which even junior high school students will use. They copy it from TV comedians. At its strongest, it is merchandise with f*** all over it. At the school I used to work at I once saw a badge on a student’s pencil case with ‘f*** you’ on it (Hello Kitty again), and recently I have seen these two examples, both in Harajuku:

harajuku:11:25          harajuku:october

At first sight they probably seem comical, but are they? In Tokyo they may seem cool, but how would you feel if you were sitting next to someone on a train or a plane and they were wearing the shirt on the right? Are you sure you’d feel completely OK? Might you want to check if they understand what they’re broadcasting to the world?

Maybe I seem a bit squeaky, up on my hand legs yapping about something that a lot of people are not offended by in the least. Someone made the same point to me today, that f*** has become just another modifier, no different from ‘very’. I disagree with this, because in my experience people use the word with people they know. No one walks into a shop and uses that kind of language with the people working there. It’s not used in the media as just another word. It has power, and if it’s not used between people who know each other well, it’s fighting talk. It’s aggressive.

In 1992, a 16-year-old Japanese high school student called Yoshihiro Hattori went on an exchange trip to Baton Rouge, Louisiana. While he was there it was Hallowe’en, and with his homestay brother he dressed up in a costume and went to a party. Unfortunately they went to the wrong house, and the owner, spooked by strangers at his door, confronted the two teenagers with a gun, and shouted ‘freeze’. While his homestay brother understood, Hattori did not, and stepped forward, only to be shot at point-blank range and killed. There were two trials, one criminal and one civil, and the man who had shot him, Mr. Peairs was acquitted of the criminal charge but found liable in the civil trial. Since then, Mr. and Mrs. Hattori have campaigned for gun control and established a charity to enable American students to visit Japan.

I remember at the time, a lot of the Japanese people I worked with expressed shock at so much of what had happened; the use of a gun when all someone had done was knock on the wrong door; the acquittal of the man who had shot Hattori, and also, ‘Did you know what “freeze” meant?’ It seemed no-one did until this incident. He didn’t understand one word, stepped forward, and was shot. Under the law, Mr. Peairs was within his rights, but a high school student lost his life because he didn’t understand that one word.

So, is it important that a Japanese person who wants to wear an item of clothing with f*** on it understand the weight and power of that word? I think it is. If they understand it and still wear it, all fine and dandy. If anyone takes issue with them they’ll know why and will have worn it knowingly. The trouble is, I don’t think they do. It’s cool, it’s English, they vaguely know it’s not a good word, but I think that’s as far as it goes. All it takes is a misunderstanding over one word. It might start a fight, it might simply cause offence, it might spoil a vacation or create unfortunate stereotypes on both sides. Is it worth it?

My neighbour Tokyo

neighboursTokyo is a huge, crowded city. Not so enormous that you can’t walk around it in a day, but full of millions of people. It’s easy to feel small, isolated, lost. It can also take a long time to make Japanese friends. I’ve written about this before; I don’t think it’s unreasonable on the part of any Japanese person to take their time getting to know someone, and in fact think that British people are exactly the same. Neither culture displays the same ready friendliness someone from North America would. It’s easy to think this is some kind of closed-off, unfriendly attitude on behalf of Japanese people in general, especially when you first arrive and really want to get to know people.

I came to Japan after living in China, where the business of making friends is completely different. In Chinese it’s quite normal to announce the formation of a friendship not long after meeting someone: 交朋友吧? (Jiao pengyou ba? Shall we be friends?) Together you agree to a friendship, you are now friends.

In most countries it doesn’t work like that, and certainly not in Japan. I have a lot of wonderful Japanese friends, but I’ve been here over twenty years. That is not to say that Japanese people haven’t always been friendly, but friends? That took a while. I’ve made this point before, but I will say it again; Japanese people are the same with each other. In cities, houses and apartments are small, it is not common to invite someone into your home. People meet in cafes, bars or restaurants instead.

My nearest neighbours are not friendly at all. In fact, I would categorise them as Not Friendly and also Somewhat Antisocial. Although our buildings are only a couple of metres apart, someone plays the piano after 11pm quite regularly, I can often hear someone using a hairdryer at 2am, and I have seen their adult son try to start a fight in the street because a delivery truck was trying get past his parked car. Now that summer is here, they delight in wind chimes. One wind chime can be a pleasant sound, an occasional gentle tinkling on a hot day. My neighbours work on the principle that more is more, and quite regularly line up five or six to ring manically in a strong breeze. The man of the house likes nothing better on a Sunday afternoon than to go out into the narrow road and practise his baseball pitching by bouncing the ball against the wall. They appear to love loud, repetitive sounds. It can be annoying, but since I have seen evidence of their very un-Japanese willingness to be confrontational I have never said anything. By contrast, the family who live at the end of the road are always friendly and greet me whenever I walk past. When one member of the family inadvertently watered me along with her flowers one day she even spoke English to offer a mortified apology.

The shops in my neighbourhood are always friendly. If I go into the small drugstore next to the station and buy cold medicine I will receive a handful of cough drops too. The employees in the tiny post office are more helpful than their counterparts in my local post office in the UK. Even the people in the convenience stores, working early and late shifts and sometimes not seeing me for weeks on end are  smiley and sometimes stop for a chat. I know it’s not the same as other countries. Most shops in neighbourhoods, even in a city like Tokyo, are still locally-run, and apart from the convenience stores they are not usually part of a chain. They all know their customers.

So this is my neighbourhood. The shopkeepers are friendly, but my neighbours are a mixed bag. Some greet me, others do not. I don’t know their names, they don’t know mine. Apparently the police will have checked with them when I applied for permanent residence, and no one torpedoed my chances. I must be doing all right separating my rubbish and have not alarmed anyone with overt displays of antisocial behaviour (unlike my immediate neighbours, I may add).

My brother lived in an apartment in London for a number of years, and every summer I stayed with him for a few days. I saw other people in the building but apart from a nodded hello I never spoke to them. I don’t know how much my brother knew them either. This is big city life in a country where the people are naturally reserved. It could be Tokyo, but it could also be London. People are busy, they spend their days on crowded trains and working hard. Of course we all want a little space, somewhere we can retreat to.

It takes time to make friends here, but the ones I have made are truly wonderful. I’m happy in my neighbourhood and with my neighbours, although I am slightly wary of the ones right next door. I appreciate being allowed to have my own little bubble in the heart of this great city.

Tokyo at three miles an hour

On my way home from church today I read a BBC article about a journalist who is going to spend the next seven years walking from the Rift Valley to Tierra del Fuego, following in the steps of the first humans as they spread from Africa across the globe. You can read the whole article here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-20902355. Of course, it’s a huge undertaking, with some parts fraught with danger, and he will have a lot of support even if he is largely walking alone or with local guides. What struck me, what stuck in my mind, was the idea that our brains have evolved to absorb information at 3mph / 5kph, or the average walking speed. Now, I am no scientist, so I can’t say if this is correct, but the concept appeals to me, because this is how I like to soak up the sights and sounds of Tokyo.

I have already written a number of posts about walking in Tokyo. Although this is a huge city with an enormous population, one of the 21st century’s megacities, Tokyo is really not so big and much of is it easily walkable; it’s largely flat, it’s not hard to find a roadside map and if you are map-challeneged like me you can always ask someone. There are three kinds of walks I enjoy; following railway lines, walking around neighbourhoods and pilgrimage routes.

Over ten years ago, I got the idea, I don’t remember from where, that I would like to walk around the Yamanote line in one day. The Yamanote line is the overground loop line around Tokyo. It is 34.5km long and carries over three and a half million passengers on an average day. There are twenty-nine stations and a full loop takes approximately one hour. Anyway, I was taken with the idea of an urban hike and luckily for me it also appealed to a friend who agreed to do it with me. It took fourteen hours (including breaks) and is probably the topic for a post all of its own, but it was that mammoth trek which confirmed for me that the best way to see the city was on foot. That day, when the cherry blossoms were in full bloom, is still clear in my mind, even over a decade later. Three years ago we repeated the walk, on the last day of the year; we shaved a couple of hours off our previous time and counted off each station as the remaining hours of the year ticked away. Same blisters though.

Even before that walk, I had enjoyed exploring different areas of Tokyo, Yokohama and Kamakura; there are a number of guidebooks available. Yanaka became a favourite, but wherever I walked I always discovered something ; a century-old rice cracker shop, where the third and fourth generations of a family were working; a shop selling a skin-whitening treatment made from nightingale droppings; traditional Japanese houses, modern architecture, and the occasional Swiss chalet. So much of Tokyo is small neighbourhoods, with local parks and shrines and temples tucked in with everything else.

The pilgrimages are a relatively new discovery for me. I did the Yamate route for the first time only a few years ago, but am excited to find a new way to explore. I have only done two out of the twenty-four so far, but I intend to do more.

After we completed that first Yamanote line walk we returned a few weeks later, armed with coffee from a nearby Starbucks (not nearly as easy to find as it is today) and did a victory lap. Our fourteen-hour marathon was condensed into a one-hour swoop around the city. That, too, is a fascinating view of the changing cityscape, and an easy way to give a visitor a brief idea of all that Tokyo is. Nothing can compare, though, to just walking and looking, feeling your feet on the ground, knowing that you are just a tiny part of a vast city. Whether you are in Tokyo or elsewhere, it is a rewarding way to spend an hour or more. Slow down, take in the world at three miles an hour. Sometimes, you can see more by doing less. You can go further by traveling a shorter distance. Even in a big city, finding the places that appeal to the senses, that take root then resonate in memory no matter how much time has passed; this is how I have nibbled Tokyo bit by bit, and have found ‘my’ Tokyo, the one that reflects all the reasons I have made it home for so long.

Marunouchi