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Goodbye 2012

Tokyo is slowly shutting down as the New Year approaches. To a visitor the city might look crowded, but the trains and buses are not crowded at all and instead of the usual rush and bustle there is a more relaxed, but still purposeful sense of activity. People are stocking up for the next few days, since everything except convenience stores will be closed tomorrow. As with many other countries, every year more and more shops open earlier and earlier so by January 2nd there are plenty of places to go if you fancy a bit of retail therapy.

Many years ago, everything closed for 3 days, and everyone spent time with family. In the days leading up to New Year, everyone pitched in to do a big clean and special New Year dishes collectively called ‘osechi’, each with a symbolic meaning, were prepared. These days, at least according to the Japanese people I know, people do clean but not necessarily with the fervour of yesteryear, and the osechi dishes are eaten on the 1st but not in vast amounts. They are very expensive if bought in a department store, and hugely time-consuming to make at home.

My version of Japanese New Year is quiet, but since I have only just come back from the UK the whole Giant Cleaning binge is lost on me. I haven’t the energy or the time; I prefer to do my spring-cleaning in spring when I can open the windows and let fresh air in without freezing.

Despite the general air of winding down, I was surprised to find a noisy demonstration taking place outside Shibuya station. There were dozens of people standing there with large Japanese flags and placards, listening to a very angry man on top of a campaign truck who was very exercised about NHK, the national broadcaster. His comments and the placards were the same; that NHK is anti-Japan, anti-emperor and pandering to China. In the course of his screeching, Mr. Angry announced that later in the afternoon they would all march to the central offices of NHK and demonstrate there. Not everyone was winding down, it seemed; he was very clearly winding up himself and everyone listening.

NHK protest

Continuing the general theme of angry shouty Japanese men, Japan has wrapped up the year electing the right-wing LDP (Liberal Democratic Party), is still embroiled in territorial disputes with China and South Korea, and the economy is looking shaky. The new government seems keener on keeping nuclear power than the rest of the population, but just to reassure us all Prime Minister Abe has appointed a Minister for Nuclear Emergency Preparedness, Nobuteru Ishihara,  spawn of former Tokyo governor Ishihara. So that’s all right then.

Today’s Daily Yomiuri newspaper has a centre spread of the Top Ten Domestic news stories of 2012. They are:

1. Yamanaka wins Nobel Prize for iPS research                                                                                 2. Tokyo Skytree opens                                                                                                                      3. Uchimura, Yoshida shine in London Olympics                                                                              4. LDP wins Lower House poll, retakes power                                                                                  5. Japan-China ties sour over Senkakus                                                                                           6. Annular solar eclipse seen from Tohoku to Kyushu                                                                       7. Ceiling panels fall in Sasago Tunnel, killing 9                                                                                8. Giants win 1st championship in 3 years                                                                                        9. Final Aum fugitives arrested                                                                                                        10. Multiple murder mystery linked to Miyoko Sumida

I wonder how many of those made the news outside Japan; I think I can only say with confidence that four did. Plenty to blog about then.

I bought some sushi and came home, posting my New Year greeting cards on the way back. To be delivered tomorrow they should have been posted by the 25th, but I didn’t get my act together before I flew back to the UK and so they will be delivered a couple of days later. I also bought a bag of mikan, or mandarin oranges, and plan to do very little for the next few days.

As I walked home I saw a lot of traditional New Year Shinto decorations on windows, gates or doors

DSCN0521and some businesses already had the pine and bamboo decoration called ‘kadomatsu’ (門松) outside

DSCN0524The sky was pink as the sun set and the neighbourhood seemed very quiet.

Dec 31stAs I write this, I can hear the neighbourhood volunteers walking down the road, warning us to be careful about fire hazards in our homes. On TV I have just watched an advert for dietary supplements for women, made from pig placenta, and the BBC, bravely ignoring all of the above news stories, have once again broadcast one of their ‘Japanese obsession’ stories, this time about a supposed obsession with cuteness and a school where you can train to be a mascot and spend your days inside a large furry suit. Sigh. As I have written this I have made a mental note to write more about a lot of things I’ve mentioned, but for now this is my snapshot of the end of the year.

Goodbye 2012. You were an improvement on 2011, but you could have been better. Let’s see what 2013 brings us. Now I am snuggled up at home, it’s time for sushi!

The BBC’s obsession with Japanese ‘obsession’

This morning I was reading the news on the BBC’s website, when I noticed that one of the most popular articles was listed as ‘Japan’s obsession with blood types’. It just made me sigh.

One of the reasons I started writing e-mail updates after the Great East Japan Earthquake in March 2011 was the way the BBC and other parts of the media were reporting the situation in Japan and how I felt it was not painting a true picture. It was disappointing, and I often sent e-mails to the BBC to say that I disagreed with how their reporters were portraying what they saw here, that what they were saying did not seem to be an accurate account of Japan after the earthquake and tsunami. I remember standing in front of my television one morning, watching Matt Frei reporting from the famous Shibuya crossing, and saying to the screen, that’s not true. It was amazingly frustrating listening to reporters stating as fact something they may have seen in one place, and instead of presenting it as an anecdote (or even speculation) they extrapolated and presented it as a general fact. I e-mailed the BBC many times and never received a response or even an acknowledgement that I had contacted them. I felt better just by e-mailing my concerns, and I wrote my updates, sent them to friends and family, and comforted myself with the fact that at least the people I knew would not be taken in by the BBC’s misrepresentations. Since then, however, I have grown more concerned that the BBC sometimes deals in stereotypes and its stories about Japan may help to confirm a stereotypical view of this great country.

I went to secondary school and university in the 80s, and at the time Japan’s economy was in the middle of the bubble, and I remember watching news reports about ridiculously expensive golf course memberships and companies paying record-breaking amounts for pieces of art, being very excited about getting my first walkman and generally having an impression of a country awash with huge amounts of money and cutting-edge technology. And yes, I know this is not a completely false picture. Now I live in Japan, and have been here for many years, and I have friends who have told me that when they think back to the bubble years they just remember getting up, going to work, coming home late, eating, going to bed, then getting up and doing it all again the next day and the next day . . . I don’t think the majority of Japanese people were spending ridiculous sums on sporting activities because they were too busy working.

Today, Japan has the 3rd biggest economy in the world, and until recently it was 2nd but was overtaken by China. While the images we saw in the bubble years persist in people’s view of Japan from overseas, the fact is that salaries are no longer in the stratosphere and unemployment especially for new graduates and other people in their 20s, was reported at 4.2% in October. Apparently, between 1953 and 2012 the average has been 2.7%; the highest recorded was 5.6% in July 2009, the lowest was 1.0% in November 1968. Clearly these numbers sound low when compared with recent figures from other countries, but it was 4.5% and 4.6% from November 2011 to May this year, and historically this is all much higher than the average for the last 50 years. The Japanese economy, like a lot of the rest of the world, is not doing well. Although Japanese people have traditionally saved money, 11.2% of people have less than one million yen in savings.

I don’t remember seeing any of this information on BBC World, but of course I have a job and don’t spend every minute of every day glued to the television and I may have missed it. What I know I have not missed is the general tone of the reporting, which plays up stereotypes and fails to provide much of a context, and so I come back to the headline which made me sigh this morning.

To be fair, the real headline for the article is ‘Japan and blood types: Does it determine personality?’ and the alternative ‘Japan’s obsession with blood types’ was the one that appeared in the list of most popular stories. However, someone has made a decision that the ‘obsession’ angle is the one which will catch a reader’s attention and I would suggest that it’s not a helpful word and really implies a focus that in my experience Japanese people just don’t have. It’s true to say that Japanese people know their blood type, while people in other countries may not be, as a rule, so aware. I must also say that I am, apparently, true to my blood type and my personality matches. I want to point out, though, that a few years ago a diet book was popular in the UK, and it was called ‘Eat right for your type’ and was based on certain blood types being suited to certain diets. For the record, I must also admit that the foods that suit me were consistent with my blood type according to that book. My quibble is not that there is no truth in it, but that presenting the Japanese people as ‘obsessed’ with this kind of thing is not an accurate portrayal. If you would like to read the entire article, you can find it here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-20170787 .

My second example is an article which was on the BBC website on March 15th this year, just four days after the 1st anniversary of the earthquake and tsunami. It was titled ‘Japan’s obsession with perfect fruit’ and you can read it here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-radio-and-tv-17352173 . Again, this word ‘obsession’ implies an excessive focus, an attention to this aspect of life which is beyond what most people would have. There is no context to this article, and by omitting several key facts Roland Buerk, the journalist who wrote it, creates an impression that I take issue with. For a start, the exchange rate between yen, sterling and the US dollar gives a false impression, since the yen is so strong at the moment, and he doesn’t point this out, and so gives a false impression of the prices here. The fruit is expensive, but the prices are not quite as high as they might seem. Secondly, the article includes this sentence: ‘Even run-of-the-mill apples can cost $2 (£1.25) or more each in central Tokyo, and families tend to share one or two around the dinner table, chopped up.’ If you can, put aside the ridiculously Dickensian vision of a Japanese family huddled over a single apple, because you may be imagining an apple you could hold in your hand and eat. Unless you are some kind of human anaconda that is not possible with a Japanese apple of the type he is referring to. Recently a friend gave me a Japanese pear and since its size was similar I made a note; it was 38cm in diameter and weighed 773g. Quite the monster fruit, and actually plenty for several people. Mr. Buerk failed to point that out.

My concern with these articles and others the BBC has broadcast or published on the website is not that they are not true, but rather this; they are whimsical, cultural stories, which I can see (from their place on the ‘most popular stories’ lists) appeal to people, and yet they are presented without some background which would make them more informative and using language which misrepresents the Japanese people. When you come across articles which amuse but yet seem to confirm or present a stereotype, please remember that, just as London is not engulfed in smog and populated by men in bowler hats carrying rolled up umbrellas, just as in the UK we don’t all stop for afternoon tea every day, these snapshots of Japan may be just that and not the blanket statement they may appear to be.

Senkaku? Diaoyu?

Japan and China (and Taiwan) are currently embroiled in a dispute about who has sovereignty over a group of very small islands in the East China Sea, called the Senkaku Islands in Japanese, known to Chinese speakers as the Diaoyu Islands. You can read about the background to this dispute on the BBC website, http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-11341139 but this morning there was an article in the Daily Yomiuri about the so-called ‘propaganda war’ both China and Japan are engaged in, domestically, but also internationally. Since someone had told me earlier in the week that Japanese TV news reports refer to the islands as the ‘Senkaku Islands, Okinawa Prefecture’ this caught my attention.

The current situation is the same as it has been for weeks now; Japan has Coast Guard boats patrolling around the islands, while China and Taiwan continue to send their Coast Guards to the disputed area to play cat-and-mouse with their Japanese counterparts. Taiwan has also sent fishing boats and there have also been boatloads of Taiwanese journalists. On at least one day the Coast Guards have circled each other firing their water canon at each other. Vaguely ridiculous, but since it could escalate very easily so it’s also rather scary. The newspaper article refers to this daily tension as ‘steady’.

Clearly, since I am in Tokyo and reading about this in a Japanese newspaper, the language (and editorial content) favours the Japanese view. So I can read this morning that ‘Beijing began a large-scale propaganda campaign to win over international opinion’ while ‘Foreign Ministry officials have been explaining Japan’s position on the Senkaku issue to officials at various embassies in Tokyo and in the overseas media’ including an appearance on American TV by a Japanese diplomat. At government level, the latest salvo is the refusal of the Chinese Finance Minister, the People’s Bank of China governor and other assorted Chinese bank representatives to attend the annual IMF and World Bank meetings being held in Tokyo. Since the Chinese economy is the 2nd largest in the world this is clearly going to affect what can be discussed there and sounds like A Big Deal.

However, this is the same kind of thing we have been hearing for a while, so I was more interested in the information in the article about the ramifications of the row. According to the article, sales of Japanese-made cars in China in September dropped 40.8% compared to last year, and 66,000 seats on Japan-China routes booked for the period from September to November have been canceled. Roughly two thirds of those seats were on ANA flights, one third were on JAL. These numbers don’t just mean flights canceled; each one is a tourist who won’t come to Japan and  spend money here. It’s also 66,000 lost opportunities for Chinese and Japanese people to connect with each other, and that is a real pity. Clearly, this could have serious implications for Japan; you can see the official statistics on the Japan Tourism Marketing site, http://www.tourism.jp/english/statistics/inbound.php. According to these numbers, that 66,000 will make a big dent in the number of tourists coming from China. Elsewhere I have found that Japan has the third largest travel and tourist economy in the world, and that was badly impacted last year after the earthquake, tsunami and nuclear emergency at Fukushima Dai-ichi, when tourism was down 28% from 2010.

Serious stuff. Although it only takes one hothead with a gun on one of those Coast Guard boats (from any of the 3 countries) to make this so much more serious, while those boats are bobbing about firing water canon at each other the economic ramifications are already serious. I don’t have the solution, but I hope this grandstanding, whether it is ‘propaganda’ or ‘explaining a stance’ somehow becomes diplomatic negotiations to resolve this stand-off.