Author Archives: tokyopurplegirl

Hello, kitties!

hapineko postcardYesterday I visited a cat cafe. I had heard plenty about such establishments and had never been to one, but I was doing one of my favourite things, showing someone around Tokyo, and thought that a cat cafe would make an interesting addition to our itinerary.

I had thought that this was a particularly Japanese idea, but apparently not; the first cat cafe was in Taiwan, but received so many Japanese visitors that it didn’t take long for someone to realise the potential and the first one opened in Japan in 2004. There are many in Tokyo and it isn’t hard to find one, all it takes is a search for ‘cat cafe’ and the area of Tokyo you are interested in.

While the idea of a cafe where you can have a cup of tea or coffee surrounded by cats may seem like a bizarre concept to people outside Japan, here it makes some kind of sense, particularly in a crowded city like Tokyo. People often live in very small apartments, many have tatami matting on the floors, and pets are just not allowed. Any cat could make short work of tatami; it’s probably excellent as a kind of horizontal scratching post. So people may find themselves living in a small space, alone, and wishing they could have a pet but unable to do so because of the terms of their lease. In such circumstances, the idea of going to a cafe, sitting for an hour or two with cats around the place, being able to pet them or just watch them play or sleep, is something that appeals to the lonely and petless of Tokyo.

The cafe we visited is called ‘Hapineko’ (ハピ猫), or Happy Cat. It’s in Shibuya and easy to find. Walk from Shibuya Crossing up to the 109 Building and take the left fork. Continue up the road on the same side as the 109 Building for a couple of minutes, and you will see a flashing orange sign on the wall saying ‘cat cafe’ and ‘猫カフェ’. Turn right into the building, walk down a short corridor, turn right up the stairs then take the elevator to the third floor. When you come out of the elevator, go up another short flight of stairs, then turn left and you’re at Hapineko.

white catOf course, since there are a number of cats in the cafe itself, there is a kind of entrance where you choose how long you want to stay, what you want to drink, and are shown information about how to behave in the cafe. This cafe lets you stay for multiples of thirty minutes, from half an hour up to whatever you’re prepared to pay for, and we decided to stay for the shortest time. Half an hour with one drink costs ¥1,050, so it could soon become quite expensive if you wanted to hang around for a couple of hours, or if you developed a serious cat cafe-visiting habit.

Having chosen the drinks and paid, and said we understood what to do (and not to do) we removed our shoes and entered the cafe. Before you get anywhere near the cats you are required to put on slippers, store all your bags behind the counter and wash your hands then use an alcohol rub to make sure you are no kind of biohazard to the cats. Finally you can sit down and look at and pet the cats.

4 catsThere were probably about ten cats around the cafe, some awake and some asleep. Several were wearing pink or white collars, and we had been instructed that we must not touch these cats. No explanation was given, and at least one of these untouchable cats was wide awake and wandering around, apparently quite friendly and curious, but it was Not To Be Touched. Some people were sitting at one end of the room, just watching the cats, but we stroked some of the cats near us and they responded in true feline style by not caring a jot about us. Some were sleeping and didn’t even wake up.

sleeping catsWhile it is all right to pick up the cats and hold them on your lap, we were unclear about how you could achieve this. While it was clear that of course you should not pick up a cat by its front legs and swing it about (illustrated on a poster on the wall with a black cross over it), it was also unacceptable to pick up a cat from a height, which seemed to imply that you couldn’t perform such a manoeuvre standing up. This would indicate that really it’s better to wait for the cats to come to you, which probably requires patience and paying for more that thirty minutes.

When our thirty minutes were up, we collected our bags and were given a souvenir postcard of the cafe. It was an interesting experience, and I can see if you loved cats and were unable to keep one as a pet, being able to visit such a cafe might be quite relaxing. As a novelty for someone visiting Japan I’d recommend it (so if you come to visit me, beware!), and if you find yourself living in a tiny cramped apartment in Tokyo it might just be a good place to unwind one afternoon.

hapineko

Sakura / 桜

Sakura 1The end of March and the beginning of April in Tokyo means cherry blossom time. Since April is also the start of the new school year, students’ memories are usually of the Entrance Ceremony under blossoms, and a lot of new 1st years take commemorative photos under the trees.

Not this year. The weather we had earlier in the year meant that the blossoms opened much earlier than usual; I saw the first sakura open in Shinagawa on March 17th. While ordinarily I would have been thrilled to see them this year I wasn’t, because I was flying back to the UK on the 18th, and wouldn’t be back in Japan until the 28th. To add insult to injury, the weather in the UK was foul, and for two days I couldn’t even leave the village:

Snowy garden               Peak District snow                       The photo on the left is the garden, where the snow was up to 30cm deep; the one on the right is the Peak District near Hathersage, where we finally managed to go just before I flew back to Japan. It may look beautiful but it was so cold, and watching all the photos of sakura popping up on Facebook was a frustrating experience. I just kept hoping that some blossoms would hang on until I got back.

I landed at Narita at about 10am on the 28th, and was home by about 1pm. Yes, it took 3 hours, mainly because ‘Tokyo New International Airport’, which is Narita’s official name, is misleading; it’s not even in Tokyo, but 60km away from the centre of the city, in Chiba prefecture. While I was waiting for the bus back into the city I was relieved to see some blossoms, and on the bus I received messages from friends telling me I would still be able to do o-hanami (お花見, or cherry blossom viewing) if I got my skates on.

So, back home and then into school to see the sakura there. We have quite a lot of old trees and the driveway and landscaped garden are beautiful. It’s a pity the new students won’t see them at all this year, but the students who have been coming to school for club activities have been able to enjoy them. I spent a happy time with a friend and colleague taking photos of our blossoms,

blossoms at schooland repeated a photo I had taken last year

reflection of sakuraof blossoms reflected in the stream in the landscaped garden. I have to confess that when I took a photo like this last year I was really trying to take one of all the tadpoles but ended up with the reflected blossoms instead. This year, it was on purpose!

Having successfully viewed the blossoms at school, I decided to leave early for church (the Maundy Thursday service started at 7pm) and stopped off in Naka Meguro (中目黒) where the sakura line the river.

Naka Meguro 2Since it’s not too far from where I live it’s my favourite place to go. I arrived there about 4pm so the light was fading a little and the blossoms were a little past their best, but it was still beautiful. The petals were already starting to fall into the water and some of the leaves were opening too.

Petals falling     Blossom with leavesThere were still quite a lot of people walking along the river, and there were some stalls selling snacks, but I imagine it was much more crowded the previous weekend when the sakura were considered ‘mankai’ (満開), or in full bloom. Still, I felt happy that I had managed to come back in time to enjoy them.

At the beginning of this new week the petals are falling fast and there are a lot of leaves on the trees now. I missed the sakuras’ full glory this year but at least I saw some. My favourite trees are just down the road from where I live, because there is a regular sakura and a weeping one side by side, and together their blossoms are beautiful.

cherry & weeping cherry

However, for sheer breath-taking, over-the-top frothy pinkness, it’s worth walking around the Imperial Palace, or going to Aoyama Cemetery, Naka Meguro or any other place where there are large numbers of trees.

I used to find it all a bit much, I thought it was annoying that any shop that could would create a pink or sakura version of their products. (Sakura tofu, anyone? Actually it’s very good.) I’m also not a fan of huge crowds (yes, I know I live in a crowded metropolis, but anyway . . .) so sitting on a blue tarpaulin with a generator (for that personal karaoke experience) or fighting my way through crowds didn’t appeal. But I have made my peace with the noise and the crush, I have found the places which are a little less crowded, chosen times when a lot of people will be at work, and now every year look forward to that short time when Tokyo goes pink, when we all go outside and wonder at the beauty of it all.

Graduation Day

Graduation Day is a milestone in any student’s life, and a great occasion at any school, and today it was our turn. For the students, of course, it is a day of very mixed emotions; the joy of graduating, and the sadness of saying goodbye to the school, their friends and teachers. For the teachers, it’s a formal day, but also a day to celebrate with the students as they come to the end of their school career.

Attire is formal, which in Japan means black, very dark grey or, at a pinch, navy. For men, that translates to a black suit, white shirt and white (or pale and discreet) tie. For women, a black suit, pearls and maybe a corsage. We were ready in the school auditorium by 9:45, and the ceremony started at 10. Since it’s a Christian school, its official title is Service of Thanksgiving and Graduation Ceremony, complete with hymns and prayers.

We started with a hymn and prayers, a psalm (the 23rd) and a reading from the Bible (1st Corinthians Ch.12), then the Choir sang an anthem. Next was my favourite part of the ceremony; the reading of an account of the school’s history, the names of our Founder and first principal, and the total number of graduates over our long history. (This year we are celebrating 125 years, so it is a very long history.) The first graduating class was only one student, but this year (as every year now) there were over 160 and in 125 years there have been over 10,000. This year the account was especially touching and beautifully written.

Then came the most important part; each student received her graduation certificate. It took about 45 minutes for them all to go up to the stage one by one, and was lovely to see each student one final time, and to think about how each one has grown in six years. After that we sang the school song and there were speeches; the principal, the invited speaker, and then an 11th grader wished the graduating class on their way. Finally, there were Speeches of Thanks in Japanese and then English.

Finally, the students (the graduating class plus the 10th and 11th graders who are there to share the occasion) stood to sing the Hallelujah Chorus, we had some prayers and another hymn, and it was over. The new graduates filed out, followed by the invited guests and senior staff, and then the students clambered onto precarious-looking stands to take commemorative photos.

We teachers retreated to the staffroom, where we scavenged for food in the kitchen and wondered when lunch would be. Once the mothers and students had finished their preparations, a delegation was dispatched to the staffroom to summon us to the sports hall. The mothers sat together, and the students and staff (teaching, office and ancillary) sat together at the remaining tables. More speeches, and then the Chaplain said grace, and we could open our boxed lunches. For me, this year, it was an unpleasant surprise, since I don’t eat meat and it was almost all beef and steak. Even the sushi was steak! I quickly shared out the meaty bits to the students around me and ate the remaining rice and fish.

There were more speeches; from the Old Girls’ Association and the PTA, both accompanied by presentations of gifts to the new graduates. The head teacher of the 12th grade made a speech, and then it was announced that there was an addition to the programme. A small group of about eight students came to the front, carrying descant and tenor recorders, said that they hoped we would find their performance relaxing,and tooted their way through a very pretty tune. Then we were back to the published programme, and the whole graduating class stood around the hall to sing two songs in what amounted to surround sound for the mothers and staff sitting at the tables. The songs were rather sentimental, and by the end of the second one a number of girls were crying, but still singing and smiling through their tears. There was a half-hearted attempt to sway with the music, but different clusters of girls swayed in opposite directions, leaving other parts of the long line not knowing which way to sway. It was almost the end of the ceremony. The vice principal spoke and then it was time to put all the remains of our lunch in a carrier bag and leave the hall. We walked back to the staffroom and by 3:30 it was all over.

I’ve worked at the same school for fifteen years, so I have seen a lot of these ceremonies. We even managed to keep going and have one two years ago, only four days after the Great East Japan Earthquake. It’s a formal day and with hours spent sitting on folding chairs listening to a lot of speeches it’s not something I look forward to with unmitigated enthusiasm. But for the students it’s a hugely important day. At some time in their school careers I have taught them all, and the whole day is a very slow goodbye to them. I didn’t cry today, but do feel emotional when I teach them for the last time and think about all the adventures and opportunities that lie ahead for them.

I am deliberately not naming the school, but I wanted to include a photo. What struck me today was the joy of all the students, how much they have enjoyed their six years at school, and how much they will miss each other. Japanese teenagers are more childlike than their British and American counterparts, and sometimes, even in the senior high school, can be endearingly goofy. We spell out the name of the school in pansies in a flowerbed at the top of the drive, the students will happily compete in a quiz and get excited about stickers, and this is a reasonable get-up for fund-raising at the annual Bazaar:

studentsCongratulations to all the students who graduated today!